Venice: Where Dreams Come True

Many young children dream of becoming dolphin trainers or professional athletes or even President of the United States.  Depending upon the day, I either wanted to be a pastor or a Broadway showgirl. 

Most young children eat only mac n’ cheese or McDonalds chicken nuggets.  I preferred Caesar salads and salami sandwiches. 

Many young children dream of visiting Disneyworld or Legoland.  My ideal vacation destination was Venice.  I have always had an easy answer to the question, “If you could travel anywhere in the world, where would you go?”  Since the age of five, my answer has been Venice. 

The interest in – or perhaps obsession with – this particular Italian city stemmed from an especially intriguing episode of Busytown, my favorite childhood TV show, which I used to watch every morning before kindergarten.  The episode featured a city with canals instead of roads, boats instead of cars.  After turning off the TV that day, I pulled on my red high tops and asked my mom before heading out the door, “Venice isn’t a real place, right?”  When I was informed that Venice was indeed an actual city that people can visit, I was instantly fascinated.  I knew that one day I would go there. 

Needless to say, I was pretty excited when I finally found myself in Venice yesterday, after fifteen years of anticipation.  And despite my fear that the city would not live up my high expectations, I was not disappointed.  Venice is truly one of the most magical and unique cities in the world. 

With all the chaos of getting to Venice with a bunch of friends, deciding what to do, and so on, it didn’t sink in right away that I was really there.  But I remember this moment: I was sitting along the ledge of a canal, in a floral dress with my feet dangling over the edge, enjoying my gelato (chocolate and pistachio) out of a green plastic cup.  And suddenly it struck me.  I’m in Venice. 

My day in Venice was perfect weather-wise, almost 70 degrees and sunny.  And all things considered, we covered a lot of ground for one day.  My friends and I explored San Marco Square and the basilica with its amazing gold mosaics, we ate tasty calzones from the cheapest lunch place we could find, we walked along the beautiful Rialto bridge, we rode through the Grand Canal on a water bus, and we watched an impressive glass-blowing demonstration on the nearby island of Murano. 

I couldn’t get enough of the peaceful canals and the charming bridges and the gondolas gliding by, captained by men in striped shirts and straw hats.  It felt like a fairytale.  I had finally made it…to Venice, my dream destination.  So now when people ask me, “If you could travel anywhere in the world, where would you go?”  I’ll scratch my head and answer the way most people do with, “Wow, good question…”  

The Pringles Ciao Down in Italia

Spring Break 2011 was one for the books.  Amazing new sights, ample time with the family, and of course several fabulous meals.  Doesn’t get much better than that. 

The story begins in Rome.  By some incredible coincidence, my brother Oliver’s high school choir trip was to Italy this year, and it overlapped with my spring break!  So I was able to spend the first part of my break in Rome with the BHS Choir.  And thanks to the insistence of my legendary ex-director, Nancie Tobison, I even got to relive my glory days by performing with the community choir since they were singing songs that I had performed in high school and could still remember…for the most part.  We sang in a friendship festival featuring four American choirs and three Italian choirs.  The performance was held at Castel Gandolfo, a small town in the beautiful castle region outside Rome where the Pope resides during the summertime.  Although we did a fair amount of performing, I still got to see the sights in Rome – Colosseum, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Roman Forum, and the Vatican.  We also visited the lovely Tivoli Gardens at an old palace outside of Rome. 

We then said goodbye to Rome and the choir, making our way up the western coast to Vernazza, one of the five towns along the Cinque Terre.  The Cinque Terre (“Five Lands”) is a hiking trail that connects five colorful towns along the stunning Mediterranean.  The idea is to spend an entire day hiking, exploring each town before moving on to the next.  Things didn’t go exactly as we had planned, however.  After hiking the first leg, we found that some of the “easy” ocean-side trails between the towns were closed due to rain damage, so we decided to take on the “difficult” hike from Manarola (town #2) to Corniglia (town #3).  This hike took us three hours (compared to the half-hour easy path) but we agreed that the extra time and effort was totally worth it!  The trail took us way up into the mountains, giving us spectacular views of the sea and the towns below.  Eventually, after cheating and taking the train, we made it to the final town of Monterosso where we relaxed on the beach, gelato in hand.  Tough life. 

Despite the gelato, we felt we had earned our dinner that night.  We found a little restaurant in Vernazza (town #4), and in typical Pringle fashion we ordered the works.  The olive pizza was one of the best pizzas I’ve had thus far in Italy, the calamari was fantastic, and the pesto pasta was equally impressive.  Pesto actually comes from that particular region of Italy, hence the deliciousness!    

The final portion of my break was spent in Florence, showing the family around my temporary home.  I took them to all the must-see places.  In Florence, you can’t leave without doing the following: shopping around the Leather Market and Ponte Vecchio, browsing Renaissance artwork at the Uffizi and allowing yourself to be astounded by Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia, and finally visiting the Duomo (yes they still allow me back inside despite the debacle a few months back).  We walked up to the Piazzale Michelangelo, a public square with great views of the entire city.  It’s one of my favorite places in Florence.  We also did some things that I hadn’t done yet, like climbing to the top of the Duomo and walking through the Boboli Gardens behind the decadent Pitti Palace, home of the powerful Medici family during the Renaissance.  We even discovered a great rooftop café that serves an excellent cappuccino and overlooks the Piazza della Repubblica. 

And although I took the family to my beloved panini and gelato joints, we got to try a few new restaurants for dinner, places I’d been wanting to try.  We loved Golden View for its seafood, live jazz music, and location right on the Arno River which offered dazzling views of the lit-up Ponte Vecchio.  Acqua al Due was probably our favorite, however.  We had dinner there with my roommate Leah and her family, who also happened to be visiting while mine was in town.  We tried the famous blueberry steak, but I preferred the pasta sampler, an assortment of FIVE different small pasta dishes each of which is selected daily by the chef.  Heavenly.  Actually that word – heavenly – is a pretty good description of my break.  A typical study abroad spring break involves a whirlwind of travel across Europe, seeing four of five different cities in a week, checking items off a list.  Mine was Italy-based and less hectic, but I still got to see and do quite a bit.  I loved sharing this amazing experience with the people I care most about.  And we certainly ate well!  The Pringles know how to make memories and how to chow down, or in this case ciao down.  I was born into the right family, that’s for sure.   

 

Comfort Food

My trip to Scotland last weekend took me back to my roots.  Perhaps you didn’t know that the prominent Pringle clan originated in the Scottish hill country?  And maybe you are unaware that the Pringle sweater brand is famous throughout Britain today?  Well, now you know. 

Although I’ve always wanted to visit Scotland because of my family’s heritage, the main motivation behind my Scotland trip was to visit Brenna Cogswell, the girl I’ve called my best friend since the day she moved in next door when we were two years old.  Brenna is spending her entire junior year studying at St. Andrews University, something my Dad practically begged me to do as well, simply so he would have an excuse to “visit me” which would conveniently involve golfing every day.  Sorry Dad, you’ll have to settle for Italy!

Getting to Scotland was an adventure in itself.  I was a little nervous about traveling alone, especially considering the fact that I had to maneuver four different forms of transportation.  But everything went smoothly, thank God.  I even booked a long layover in Dublin so I’d have the chance to see Ireland!  I was only there long enough to do a quick bus tour of the city, but I hit all the highlights and still found time to stop in a pub for a Guinness.  Truthfully I could only finish half of my glass, that stuff is heavy! 

It wasn’t until my bus pulled into St. Andrews and I saw Brenna waiting for me that I felt I had truly found my roots.  It felt surreal being in Scotland together.  This was the girl with whom I used to spend hours playing elaborate pretend games in my backyard, but here we were in Europe having a real adventure.  Not as Simba and Nala or two lonely orphans, but as Aubrey and Brenna. 

The weekend was nothing short of fantastic.  Brenna showed me around her university (the oldest in the world) and the charming town of St. Andrews, located along the North Sea.  We re-enacted “Chariots of Fire” on the beautiful West Sands Beach and took a walk along the Old Course at sunset.  Since I come from a golfing family, it was pretty special to see such a historic course.  We also enjoyed lattes and scones at North Point; I’m told Prince William and Kate used to frequent this spot when they were students at St. Andrews.  If all this weren’t enough, Saturday night I got to go to a fancy St. Andrews Ball!  Live music and lots of dudes in kilts…recipe for a good time if you ask me!  

On Sunday Brenna and I went to the capital city of Edinburgh and spent the day exploring there.  The Edinburgh Castle was a highlight, but so was taking a coffee break at the Elephant House where J.K. Rowling wrote the first Harry Potter book (see the decorated toilet below).  Also notable was dinner, where I ate one of the best cheeseburgers I’ve ever had.  You don’t generally find burgers on the menu in Florence, so for me it was quite a treat.      

So far my time in Europe has been unforgettable, action-packed, and full of new experiences.  Living in a new city and adapting to another culture is exciting and fun, but occasionally I find myself craving the familiar and the comfortable.  Brenna and I agreed that the weekend provided us both with a healthy dose of home.  Sometimes you just need a little comfort food.    

Vittoria's Kitchen

Clean white walls and light gray marble countertops create a calming atmosphere in the little room.  Drawers and cabinets are stocked with cutting boards, cooking sheets, and knives of every shape and size.  Fresh ingredients are piled in the basket on the table, waiting to be put to good use.  Two ovens and two stoves allow multiple dishes to be cooking at once, generating a myriad of wonderful smells on any given afternoon. 

This is Vittoria’s kitchen.  Not her personal kitchen, but the one in which she teaches lessons to young cooking enthusiasts like myself.  When I signed up for her class on Italian vegetarian cooking, I was told it would be a group course.  But upon entering Vittoria’s kitchen for my first lesson, I found myself alone with Vittoria, her sole pupil.  At first this was intimidating, for Vittoria is a typical Florentine woman, proud and slightly aloof.  By the end of my first lesson, however, we were laughing together at my cooking mistakes and swapping stories about our families. 

At the start of each lesson, Vittoria welcomes me into her kitchen with a rapid wave of the hand and a stern, “I wait for you,” even if I am arriving a few minutes early.  She tucks her wild white hair into her chef hat and reties her apron, tightening it as an indication that she is ready to get down to business.  Vittoria has a commanding presence in the kitchen; years of experience are evident in the way she can take control of a knife or a piece of dough and force it to do her will.   And yet, Vittoria’s cooking mantra has nothing to do with coercion.  She repeatedly reminds me to cook “slowly and gently, but with energy.” 

Over the past few weeks, Vittoria and I have made some amazing dishes – gnocchi, risotto, polenta, stuffed tomatoes, and even cannoli.  We make everything completely from scratch.  Vittoria isn’t easy on me, but I must admit that I leave each lesson feeling rather accomplished!  The pear torte we made a few weeks ago might have been the best dish of them all.  I’ll never forget Vittoria squatting down looking with scrutiny at our torte baking in the oven.  She tugs on my apron so that I join her, both of us now eye-level with our fragrant creation.  She turns toward me, smiling, and shakes my hand enthusiastically saying, “Best compliments. Perfetto!”  Might be one of my top ten proudest moments.   

For me, cooking has always been a relaxing pastime.  And with the fast pace of my days here in Florence, I treasure the hours I spend with Vittoria in the kitchen during my weekly cooking lessons.  The peace and quiet of Vittoria’s kitchen gives me a chance to reflect and recharge every Wednesday, thus serving as my reminder to live the way Vittoria cooks: “slowly and gently, but with energy.”  I think I’ve found a new motto, both for cooking and for life.    

All About Atmosphere

This past weekend I took a train from Florence to Milan to stay with a friend from Boston College who is studying there for the semester.  There were three of us visiting him, all BC students studying abroad in various parts of Europe.  Needless to say, the four of us had an incredibly fun weekend together.  We saw all the major sights in Milan, including the famous La Scala Opera House, the world’s oldest shopping mall, the Sforza castle, and Milan’s own elaborate duomo cathedral (below I am pictured in front of it with my nutella waffle).  

In Milan, I had my very first aperitivo experience.  Aperitivo is a study abroad student’s dining fantasy: 8 euro gets you one drink of your choice along with unlimited access to sizable buffet featuring several varieties of pasta and pizza, cold cuts with bread and cheeses, numerous delectable side dishes, and so on.  It is very common for Italian restaurants to offer aperitivo specials a few nights a week, and on such evenings, American students notoriously take over the restaurant, managing to fill their plates four or five times.  We were no exception. 

And while aperitivo was certainly satisfying, I think I can safely say that the highlight of the weekend was our day trip to Lake Como on Saturday.  No I didn’t see George Clooney…sigh.  Regardless, Lake Como might be the most beautiful place I’ve ever been.  And I think I’ve figured out why I adore it so much.  Lake Como is like Lake Geneva, Wisconsin meets Telluride, Colorado; thus it combines my two favorite places in the world.  Then add in the Italy factor, and it doesn't get much better!  Sprinkled randomly around the lake are quaint little towns like Varenna and Bellagio, the two we visited.  There is wonderfully little to do in these towns other than relax and enjoy the views.  It is impossible to be there and not feel amazed at the beauty of creation. 

After taking a ferry from Varenna to Bellagio, my friends and I had a leisurely meal at this restaurant right on the water (pictured below).  We enjoyed dessert and cappuccino while we watched the sun set over the breathtaking blue lake and snow-capped mountains.  I have come to find that sometimes what you are eating is not nearly as significant as where you are eating and with whom.  And while our food was delicious, this was one of those times.  My friends and I were speechless, exchanging looks that conveyed our mutual feelings about this experience: pretty darn awesome.   

Appetite for Adventure

Last weekend, I had the pleasure of traveling to Interlaken, Switzerland!  It was a weekend full of “firsts.”  My first time paragliding (below is a picture of me taking off), first time attending a chocolate tasting, first time dining at Hooters (they have one in Interlaken, who knew?), and most notably my first time skiing in the Alps. 

Skiing in the Swiss Alps was a dream come true.  I only skied one day, but it was by far my favorite part of the trip.  The conditions were perfect – blue skies, spring temperatures, and minimal ice.  Run after run, I was dazzled by the beauty of my surroundings.  It almost didn’t feel real.  Since I’ve done so much skiing in Colorado, people keep asking me how the Alps compare to the American West in terms of skiing.  To be honest, I can’t really give a good answer since I only skied one day in the Alps.  But that one day was truly great! 

Despite the fact that my friends and I went to Hooters not just once but twice, I made the effort to experience some traditional Swiss cuisine as well.  The dish I ordered has a name, but it is in German and involves roughly fourteen syllables so I’ll spare you the trouble and just describe it instead.  Picture a sizzling plate of small dumplings covered in a Swiss cheese sauce and topped with broccoli, accompanied by warm and crusty garlic bread.  Might sound like a random combination of tastes, but it was to die for, especially after a long day of skiing. 

All in all, my trip to Interlaken was a success.  It satisfied not only my appetite for food, but for adventure as well!  

Duomo Debacle

The Duomo of Florence is probably the city’s single most recognizable structure.  I was extremely excited the day I moved into my apartment on Via dei Servi, which places me less than two blocks from it.  A colossal and breathtakingly elegant work of architecture, the Duomo is impossible to miss and hard to forget once you’ve seen it.  But the Duomo is more than a building.  It is a Cathedral that has been carrying on the tradition of the Catholic faith for nearly six centuries.  Although I am not a Catholic, my Christian faith is very important to me and so I decided to attend a Mass at the Duomo my very first week in Florence, thinking this would be a most meaningful and memorable experience. 

I entered the Cathedral and chose a seat in the back.  From my small wooden pew, I looked up.  The beautiful paintings adorning the inside of the dome seemed as though they were miles above me.  The Mass proceeded as usual until it was time for the Eucharist.  Since I attend a Jesuit-Catholic university back in Boston, I am familiar with the general proceedings of Mass.  I am aware that Lutherans like myself are not welcome to partake in Communion at a Catholic Mass, however this time I decided that I was going to do it anyway.  I just wanted to experience the holiest of meals at the Duomo in Florence.  So I stood and waited my turn until the Italian priest offered me the body.  I took it, turned around, and began to walk away before I had eaten it.  For some reason I thought I was supposed to eat it back at my seat, but I was severely mistaken.  I was halfway back to my seat when the sacred silence was interrupted shouts of, “Scusi! Scusi!”  As I looked over my shoulder, I was horrified to see the Italian priest running towards me, the pitter-patter of his fervent leaps making loud echoes throughout the world-famous Cathedral.  Upon reaching me, he angrily barked at me in Italian, something along the lines of, “Consume the body!”  I hurriedly shoved the wafer in my mouth, my wide eyes filled with terror and embarrassment. 

The rest of the service was a blur; I could focus on nothing besides my utter humiliation mixed with a slight resentment toward the Catholic Church’s fanatic obsession with ritual.  Nevertheless, a few hours later I was laughing with my roommates as I told them the story.  Of all the meals I will eat in Italy, none will be quite so comical as my Communion meal at the Duomo.